(100/100 - mm of filament extruded)) × current steps/mm = new steps/mm value. If it's not, calibrate e steps per mm using the following formula until you consistently extrude 100mm of filament. Take a measurement from the bottom of extruder block to the tip of the extruded filament and verify it is 100mm. Send gcode G1 E100 F300 to tell the extruder to extrude 100mm of filament. Test extrude 100mm Thread in filament until it is even with the bottom of the hole were the heat break is supposed to go.Enable cold extrudes Send a M302 S0 command to enable cold extrudes.If you don't have trinamic drivers, you'll need to do a potentiometer adjustment to reach the correct vref based on your driver and aim for 1200 mA (90% of 1.3 Amps). This should give you a Max current of ~1330 mA. If you're using Marlin and have trinamic drivers, you can do this by issuing gcode M906 E940(**). (It's the only amperage given so I'm assuming that's the run current, not the max current or RMS current). According to the datasheet the hemera motor runs at 1.33amp. If you're using Marlin and have trinamic drivers, you can to this by issuing gcode M92 E397.5. If you have trinamic drivers, and aren't using interpolation for higher microstepping, than you'll need to multiply this value accordingly. I've found that that setting causes quite of a bit of over-extrusion, and after some fine tuning, I've settled on 397.5 steps/mm for E axis. Set E axis steps per mm to 397.5 According to the datasheet, 409 steps/mm is the ideal value for 1/16th microstepping.The stepper coil wiring is on page 6 of the hemera motor datasheet if you want to verify things against your own boards pinouts. If you do the same, and it works, then you'll want to swap the position of the red and green wires (middle two wires) on the end of the cable that goes into your main board. For me, i found that it was easiest to reuse my existing ribbon cable for the old E stepper to ensure the correct coil wiring configuration. If you're using a ramps compatible main board, you will find that the main board end of the stepper motor cable included in the kit is likely not wired correctly. Observe & confirm/fix polarity of stepper coil wiring harness.Use Octoprint, pronterface, or similar software to send commands mentioned below. This will ensure you have a working motor before you mount everything, and be the easiest way to calibrate E axis steps per mm. If you have an identical hardware configuration, you can download my firware from my fork of Marlin at Verify and Calibrate Motor by doing a Cold Extrude before mountingĭo this step right out of the box, even before you thread in the heatbreak or heater block and nozzle. I'm not going to do a full guide, since I'm hoping one of the popular YouTubers who is capable of a high production quality video will do a comprehensive guide, but I have put together the following tips and lessons learned that should help some of you who are struggling but can't figure out why things aren't working.įor reference: I have an Ender 3 with an SKR 1.3 using Marlin 2.x, equipped with TMC2208's in UART and a BLTouch. I'm very familiar with Marlin 2.x, and so I finally decided to just go straight to the Hemera Datasheet, and finally got things working. However, as time went on with my install, I discovered each guide was missing critical information, had bits of information incorrect, or included firmware files in a old or flattened format, making it difficult to discern firmware changes required. I got the E3D Hemera (formerly called the Hermes) a week ago, and at first glance was impressed by the amount of documentation/guides E3D worked with popular YouTubers to create.
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